Active ingredients in cosmetics are a broad subject…
Active principle, active ingredient, extract – all these terms are used, but what do they mean? Is there a difference between them? What purpose do they serve? Where do they come from and what do they do? You have probably already asked yourself these questions, and here at TiL, we have a somewhat unique philosophy on the matter, and we will try to shed some light on it for you.
An oil-in-water emulsion: water surrounds the oil droplets, resulting in light, moisturizing textures that penetrate well.
A water-in-oil emulsion: water droplets are inside the oil droplets, creating richer, more nourishing formulas.
But as you know, these two phases do not spontaneously mix, so an emulsifier is added to bind them together, making the mixture homogeneous and, most importantly, stable.
We would like to take this opportunity to convey a message: be cautious with DIY (do-it-yourself) approaches, as consultations with dermatologists for skin reactions are on the rise…
Both contribute to the product’s activity:
An “objectified” active principle means that its effectiveness has been measured and quantified through scientific or clinical studies: in vitro tests on cell cultures, in vivo tests on human subjects. It ensures real effectiveness. Often, extracts are present in a formula without any objective data supporting their effectiveness. When an extract is “standardized” it means it is controlled in terms of concentration or active ingredient content. This guarantees a consistent amount of active molecules in each batch. Standardization is achieved through methods like chromatography or spectrometry, which separate and identify the compounds present in the extract. It is common for extracts to be present in a formula without any objective data supporting their effectiveness.
The INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is mandatory on all cosmetic product packaging and lists all the ingredients present. They are listed in descending order by percentage: the first ingredient on the list is present in the largest quantity, and the last ingredient is present in the smallest quantity. Natural ingredients are listed using the plants’ Latin names. For example, silver linden is listed as Tilia Tomentosa.
The three years of R&D conducted to develop our exclusive active ingredient and all the formulas followed the approach of using natural and objectified formulas.
This exclusive active ingredient is both local, natural, standardized, and objectified. It was developed after a comprehensive molecular analysis of each part of the linden tree, a world-first: buds, branches, leaves, and flowers, revealing a high concentration of moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant molecules. These molecules are then extracted using cryo-extraction because we only use fresh material. As soon as the different parts of the linden tree are harvested, they are frozen to preserve the integrity of the active molecules (they lose much of their effectiveness when dried into a powder). They are then highly concentrated into extracts and combined (like assembling a Champagne blend) in Tiliactiv4®, which is at the heart of all our cosmetic formulas. Created by biotechnology using fresh materials from our centuries-old linden trees in Dordogne, it is anti-free radicals, soothing, anti-wrinkle, and hydrating.
Its effectiveness has been measured and objectified:
Soothing: 64% inhibition capacity of 5-LOX (inflammation).
Antioxidant: 68.7% radical scavenging capacity.
It is standardized, meaning that regardless of the harvest, varying quality due to different climates, and the linden tree parts being more or less beautiful each year, it always contains the same concentration of active molecules. It also ensures consistent quality because we have complete control over the harvesting process of our wild linden trees, located in a family estate in the heart of the preserved nature of the Périgord-Limousin Regional Natural Park.
The specifications given to our laboratory were very ambitious, but we achieved it!
All actives are Made in France.
TiL skincare formulas have also undergone clinical studies with women to measure their effects on various parameters of youth and skin beauty, with consistently positive results.
So, greenwashing is not our style! We also avoid unsubstantiated promises… TiL is both natural, effective, sensory, and represents the highest form of sophistication: simplicity.
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